A Good Commuter Bike Needs ONLY THESE 4 Characteristics
A Good Commuter Bike Needs ONLY THESE 4 Characteristics
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If you’re looking for the perfect bicycle for your commute, you need to consider only four aspects. Everything else is secondary. In this video, we’re discussing what those four things are.
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My current summer commuter bike is actually a very old department store bike of sorts – it’s an Eaton’s Glider, built by Raleigh for a long-defunct Canadian department store chain, probably in the 1960s or 70s. I bought it used in 2008 for $C40 (plus another $30 or so to make it roadworthy since it had been sitting in a garage for a couple of decades) and it’s one of the most practical bikes I’ve ever owned. It’s basically a Raleigh Sport under a different name, with the upright-type handlebars, crossbar frame, 3 speed Sturmey-Archer hub, and rim brakes.
More recently I decided I wanted a winter bike, so I picked up a rather similar one, called an Empire. I know nothing of the history of the company, except that from its logo I think it was Canadian. This one is a single speed with coaster brake and step-through frame, almost like a Dutch bike. Had to swap out the front wheel for one that could take a studded tire, though, because they don’t make studded 26 x 1 3/8 in tires, but I’ve been riding it in snowy and slushy conditions without trouble.
Both of these bikes get used most often to get to work (3 km) or to the grocery store (a bit less), sometimes 6-7 km for other trips. Terrain is very flat (Winnipeg, MB) so these bikes wouldn’t be suitable for everyone.
My favorite was a Raleigh C50. I shortened the chain stays and installed a different fork(shorter and less rake) with drop bars, eventually it got Sachs ergo power shifters and Shimano drive train. So it now has good cyclo cross geometry . Had a torch at the bicycle shop i woked at . Cool now it’s a cyclo cross bike with a sloping top tube that’s easy to get on and off. Gee why didn’t anyone think of that sooner. Anyway nothing like commuting on tubulars (the cyclo cross type with the center worn smooth) daily and being able to go off raod at the flick of the wrist with confidence . Still have it.
for a commuter bike I look for one with higher handle bars as having to hunch over for more than an hour to work and back is very uncomfortable
I chose my eBike for these specific cirteria. I ended up with a Cube Nuride 750 Pro, which out of the box or rather the store was pretty alright but lacking in comfort features for super long rides as I found out after using it for several months. Upgrading it with a sprung seat post and comfort grips now stopped me from getting a sore butt when riding for more than 15km, which happened all the time since its an eBike and my routes are that long. I now need to buy a new handlebar to prevent my radius and ulna from crossing and making my hands go numb.
I also added a carrying rack and pannier bags. Its a non-negotiable for me. If a bike doesnt have them, its not on the recommendations list for me. Carrying capacity is essential, its whats diffirentiating a bike from a means to do sports to something that will replace a car.
Everything thing he’s saying is contradictory to his next comment.. it really doesn’t make sense..? 90% of the bikes out there are department store bike’s.. especially those crappy comuters..
One thing I’ve learned just recently: The frame size is important. Now, I’m not tall by any means but I’m not a child anymore, either. So, if you’re around my size (5"3 and slightly under), don’t get a 14"" bike. Go for 16 or even 18"", depending on the bike. MTB-Frames are smaller in general. Test-drive the bike, regardless if you buy it at a store or from someone else. Sometimes a small frame can be made more comfortable by switching the seat post, other times not.
#5: a place to leave your bike on the other side. Like a garage with an attendant. That helps a lot
When I lived and worked in Central London, I had a bike that was expensive for me: a brand new Dawes Galaxy. I used to leave it get as dirty as possible. Not the chain or the gears, or anything important, but the frame, the mudguards, the wheels, were as unattractive as I could get them. This made it less appealing to anyone looking at a rack full of bicycles deciding which one to steal, I thought. It seemed to work as I never had it taken.
Stuff that I want on my bike:
– high and or swept back handlebar
– street tires
– a rear rack;
– honorable mention to ebikes and step throughs
What I don’t want on my commuter bike:
– a expensive looking frame
– a front derailer.
Department store bikes can be upgraded as things break down. This is a good way to learn about maintenance and customize it to your specific needs. It can cost less than something from the bike shop if you have the time and patience to learn to work on your bike.
I ride a surly long haul trucker, bomb proof get you there every time
low maintenance: keep it maintained. keep you tyres on the right pressure, keep your chain lubed and clean the discs once in a while. This is how I keep my commuter for a daily 6km trip going strong for 6 years now. Every summer or winter holiday I do some more stuff like replacing the brakepads/cassette/chain/tyres/etc. if needed.
Also depending on where you live, I live in a salty area near the sea. I make sure I use real stainless steel, aluminium or plastic mounts instead of galvanized stuff. This tends to rust and harm the rest of the bike.
I was thinking bikes where kept the wrong way in the rack when you were showing the 1990’s bikes … Wheels should go inside the rack but it was kept 90% opposite of that slot.. don’t know what I was thinking about was right.. usage makes the utility of the space I do understand but what could be it it was used differently?
i still drive my very first bike and i built it into my perfect commuter over the years but my only gripe now is that i have rim brakes and not disk brakes and my frame doesn’t support it. Not a big deal but it does mean i have to be more careful in wet or cold weather because braking performance can become very poor.
thank you, good advice. I go for practical and safe!
Comfort and low maintenance are where I got sold to your points.
I build my bike over a year that my Boss giftet to me. Basicly Everything had to be replaced. My must haves are are: an internal hub because germany is preaty rainy. A Front and back rack because i want to drive long tours with this "Frankenstein". 28′ Fat armored wheels (Schwalbe Marathon Plus) and the socalled "Brezel" handlebars.
Thats my minimum for a good bike. Total Cost about 600€ and many hours of Research, cleaning and building. The only Upgrade would be rust related with a New frame that wouldnt rust and a drive Belt 😀
What Do you think?
Ask why do you love cycling/ commuting with bike
1. Good saddle
2. Good brakes
3. Good shifters
4. Good tyres/rims
Also a frame that fits
I love my Mid 90’s ZX6500 Trek. It’s been through several style reno’s. I’m older now, so I’m going road n’ rough commuter touring style. I love the horns extention handle-bar sticks that came on the bike. I pad-taped them and use them as my riding position high-risers. Comfortable riding for me. All your points are spot on. Make your bike your own but don’t break the bank.
Had bike worth a few thousand dollars but it was a maintenance queen, hence to say someone else has to maintain it now.
Simple mountain bicycle frame like Marin bicycles from 1980s and 90s horizontal top tube, vertical seat tube and handlebars as adjustable as much as possible ,simple technologies no super high tech crap ,just chro- moly steel and simple design ,good quality materials.
A good bicycle should be adaptable as possible.
I want on my bicycle
– brightest front/rear lights
-loudest bell & whistel
– front &rear fenders
-rear luggage rack
– rear saddle bags paniers
-built in lock
-easy to repair with minimum of tools and parts you can find in any bicycle shop and hardware store
I have trifold bike and also an Aleoca Viaggi folding bike, basic shimano tourney 6 speed with front and rear racks. I use that Aleoca alot more going to places, send kids to sch or going to the market. It’s the most reliable and safest as i dont need to worry when i lock it up.
I feel that no matter what bike u have, u will need at least one workhorse bike for everyday use 😂
Talking hands are annoying to see for someone such as myself who is autistic.
Are a lot of people who did not pay atention to nothing reagarding bikeing, they afirm that no need for helmet, vest, lights, multitool and a small raincoat, cheap, uniq usage… they leave theyr home clean as fuck just with a bike, with nothing on it….I can’d understant how ignorant can they be in life? :)))) Even if i have a single speed and light bike, i can’t go out without that 4-5 items, extremly necesary for every day rideing….Also if you just ride once a week you bike, the most usefull object remain the helmet…guy’s don’t play with your life if you know that are riding with the cars…if not, it is alrigh to not have one..
Trek District.
90s MTN bike commuter here. Nothing quite like locking up a drab grey 30-yr old steel Raleigh and trotting into a store worry-free. I have changed it to a 1X7 drivetrain and replaced lots of worn parts over the years as the support for those bikes remained good for quite some time. It certainly checks all the boxes.
I agree with you 💯%.. specially being low-key. Simple is better.
The alternative to locking is bringing it inside as a folder. Obviously only applies if a folder fits your other criteria.
Not a commuter (anymore), 76 yrs old regular/ frequent bike-user tho.
My must haves? Pedalling support (ie, an ebike)
Internal gear hub (a Shimano fan myself 😊)
Dutch-style frame
Fenders, rear rack, and a MIRROR !!
Cheers all, and happy/safe cycling.
I ride a 1991 Costco MTB that I bought new. It has an "all" chrome molly Tange Premiere frame and fork. I’ve upgraded the stem and handlebars for a more upright position. I’ve added racks front and back with folding panniers, fenders, and my "most loved" upgrade. An Enveolo 380 hub. What a difference that makes for the ride, and maintenance. Will never have a bike without it or a Roloff hub. Looking to maybe add a CYC Proton motor system to it as I’ve gotten older.
My commuter bike is a 20 year old trek 520, it has rear rack, mud guards, 700 x35 mm tires, i oil and clean the chain weeklyand i use it for work (about 5 mile) grocery shopping; laundry, etc. etc. ho! And also i have rechargable lights and a lock.
There’s good advice here! I agree with low-maintenance as an important factor. I used to get a puncture every few months with the Kenda tyres my bike came with. A few years ago I changed to Schwalbe Marathon Plus tyres because they’re famous for resisting punctures. Some people hate these tyres because they’re heavy and hard. But they grip very well I’ve had only one puncture, from a 3" nail, in the years since then. Think of all the roadside repairs it’s saved me.
I’ve got an eVelo Galaxy SL, and I adore it ❤ It’s an ebike, but the gears work when the power is off, so if I were to run the battery down it’s still rideable 🙂 It’s kind of like a dutch bike — It’s a step-through frame, and I added a riser so the handlebars are even taller, giving me a very upright posture. It’s super comfy 🙂 I installed a cafe/ring/frame lock with a chain, so it’s easy to lock up, and I’ve got a basket on the back rack, so I can carry a bunch of stuff. (I’m in the backpack in the rear basket camp for transporting stuff to and from work 😆) It came with fenders and lights, which are pretty essential this time of year 😛 I added a universal trailer hitch, so I can pull a trailer. I got a pet trailer so that I could carry my black lab if he gets too tired on a ride, but I’ve also used it for grocery shopping at Costco and WinCo, and with the extra help from the motor I have no trouble hauling my loot back up the hill to my house 🎉 I can’t use it to transport my kids (the youngest is 10!), but for solo trips around town my bike can pretty much replace my car 🚲🎉
In 1977, I purchased a 1974 Schwinn Speedster. Bomb-proof Chicago frame, Sturmey-Archer 3-speed hub, fenders & chainguard. Inherently theft-resistant. It’s still my daily! Best $40 I ever spent!
Excellent points! Have a 2019 Specialized Crossroads—a hybrid that’s comfortable for a 20 mile ride (have no need to ride any further than that), practical (low maintenance), has a lot of gears (more than I really need), and I have customized it to suit my needs in all kinds a weather and on a variety of terrains in a leafy small to medium sized city. Always lock it and keep it in my line of sight. If I can’t see it and lock it I don’t take it. Not a commuter I but run errands and ride for exercise and fun. Best bike I have ever had and it fits my needs perfectly.
My ideal "commuter" (actually just errands since I wfh) is an upright step thru city (e)bike, with attachments for accessories. I prioritize comfort, because I don’t want to feel like I can’t tolerate a long. I’m not too concerned with speed–I got the bike to improve the quality of my rides and for functional exercise. If speed (or weather) is truly a factor, I take my car. I still save on charging and maintenance the less I drive my car.
1-Comfort: The bike has to be comfortable and suit your personal taste. I prefer bikes with an upright geometry, like the Dutch style. This way, you can clearly see all the cars, pedestrians, and obstacles instead of just the ground.
2-Carrying Capacity: The bike should have the capacity to carry things. A front basket helps a lot, or rear cargo space for grocery shopping.
3-Brakes:
They should be either disc brakes (hydraulic or mechanical) or coaster brakes (pedal brakes).
Any other type of brake won’t work!
Crab-style brakes rely on the wheel being straight, and if you’re using your bike daily, it won’t stay straight. This will affect you a lot.
Rod brakes have a similar issue. They slow down the bike and require a lot of extra effort.
I have 4 bikes and I don’t own a car. My favorite commuter is a fixed gear gravel bike. Very low maintenance and a fun go anywhere ride.
What matters: right size of STEEL(!) frame, fitting gear ratio, front rack of sorts, mudguards, Shwalbe Marathons 😉, strong lights, BMX pedals.
What to spend money on: wheels, proper servicing (before winter and after), frequent maintenance, tools (buy them gradually and have full workshop eventually), very strong padlock.
What not to spend on: Aluminium, carbon, high end components.
Any bike will be stolen in the US doesn’t matter if it’s inexpensive. Most bike thieves aren’t googling the value first, they usually just need something to exchange for drugs or do it impulsively.
1. comfort 2. practical 3. low maintenance 4. not locked up
– I have Marathon Plus tires so I don’t have punctures, and can ride on ‘gravel’ bike paths also. I found I replace them about every 5 years, because they dry out and become more puncture-prone.
– I have hydraulic disk brakes. Unlike on a road bike I’m riding in the rain and in the city, in traffic, next to pedestrians, through public parks, at night, you have to be able to stop easily and reliably.
– A rack and a pannier, both for shopping and for commuting with a laptop.
– Lights of course because daytime is short in winter.
– I have dual-side pedals, SPD on one side and flat on the other, so I use it with street shoes or bike shoes.
– A "New York Fahgettaboudit" U-lock, and the wheels are locked to the bike too.
– A nice range of gears, I usually only use the upper range but that’s because I’m stronger now and can stand up on the pedals when going up-hill.
– A helmet and gloves because I fall off about once every 2 years
– No suspension (except the tires, gloves, and being able to stand up on the pedals e.g. on cobble-stones or pot-holes)
– You recommended steel, mine’s aluminium, it has a few nicks in the paint but no rust
– I agree with a mid-range price e.g. mine was $800 new about 12 years ago (pays for itself in a year by not needing public transport) — "regular maintenance" just means changing parts when they wear out, e.g. top-up the tyre pressure, change the disc brake pads every 6 months, the chain every year, the bottom bracket and tires every 5 years, and the wheels every 10 years.
What’s the ideal group set for a good commuter bike. Also, can you get decent quality components for a bike around 500? What brands would you recommend. I’ve recently moved to Italy. There are a lot of local brands from 200E to over 1000E. I am not familiar with these brands. The more bike shops I visit the more confused I get. Any suggestions?
Superb video ! George U.K.
I like how everyone pitches in on the comments with bicycle videos
Budafok Mindörökké!
You are 100 % correct! I think that you would love my commuter bike collection! BTW, I am using the terminology of the times. I a. 60 years old, and I have ridden my bike throughout my life, and I have never concerned myself with the made-up terminology
200 usd single speed with rear rack.